National Geographic - Alice Albinia | Photographs Brendan Hoffman
Melting ice is crucial to the thirsty Indus River region. But now the flow is projected to decline, posing risks for agriculture and a growing population.
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CHINA: Pilgrims take selfies last September at Drolma La, the highest point on their 32-mile kora—a
circular, meditative walk around Mount Kangrinboqe in Tibet. The
mountain is sacred to four religions, and four of South Asia’s rivers
rise from near its cardinal points. The source of the Indus River is a
four-day walk north of the mountain.
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From near Mount Kangrinboqe in Tibet rise four major rivers, which
stretch east and west across the Himalaya and down to the sea like the
limbs of a venerable water goddess. Where these rivers flow, they define
civilizations and nations: Tibet, Pakistan, northern India, Nepal,
Bangladesh. How their water is spent has long depended on the people
living downstream. How the rivers are replenished depends on two things:
monsoon rains and glacial ice melt. Both phenomena, for millennia the
preserve of the gods, are now in the hands of humans too.
(See why these 10 rivers are vital to Asia’s survival.)
Rivers emerging from the eastern Himalaya, like the Brahmaputra, are
mostly fed by the summer monsoon; their flow may well increase as a
warming climate puts more moisture in the atmosphere. But most water in
the Indus, which flows west from Mount Kangrinboqe, comes from the snows
and glaciers of the Himalaya, the Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush.
Glaciers especially are “water towers”:
They store winter snowfall as
ice, high in the mountains, and they surrender it as meltwater in spring
and summer. In this way, they provide a steady flow that nourishes
humans and ecosystems. Downstream, in the plains of Pakistan and
northern India, the world’s most extensive system of irrigated
agriculture depends on the Indus. The glaciers that feed it are a
lifeline for some 270 million people.
(The Indus River is a lifeline for millions. This map shows the threats it faces.)
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INDIA: Schoolchildren in the village of Gya, Ladakh, cross a glacial stream that feeds the Indus. The river flows through Ladakh, an arid, high-altitude region in northernmost India, on its westward journey from Tibet to Pakistan. In recent decades climate change has sped up the melting of glaciers that feed the Indus, causing unprecedented flooding. In 2014 a flood from a glacial lake destroyed two houses in Gya.
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Most of those glaciers are
now shrinking. At first, that will increase the flow in the Indus. But
if temperatures rise as predicted, and the glaciers continue to melt
back, the Indus will reach “peak water” by 2050. After that, the flow
will decline.
Humans already use 95 percent of the Indus, and the population of the basin is growing fast.
Writing recently in the journal Nature,
an international group of scientists (supported by the National
Geographic Society) analyzed glacial water towers worldwide. The Indus
is the most critical, they said: Given the region’s “high baseline water
stress and limited government effectiveness,” it is “unlikely that the
Indus … can sustain this pressure.” Pakistan will suffer most.
From 2003 to 2006, I traveled the 2,000-mile river, from the Arabian Sea to its source in Tibet, researching my book
Empires of the Indus.
Already it was clear that it was under strain. The Indus had changed
out of all recognition from the mighty river described by British
colonial officials. It had been diminished by the demands of irrigation,
industry, and daily life. Because of dams and barrages, it no longer
reached the sea, and its mangrove-forested delta was dying. Its lakes
were polluted with effluents and sewage.
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PAKISTAN: The ice-fed torrent of the mountains spreads to its full breadth in the plains of Sindh in southern Pakistan. The barrage at Sukkur, visible in the distance, was built during colonial times. It funnels Indus water into a network of canals to irrigate crops such as cotton, wheat, and rice in the desert. Along the Indus, the British created what is still the world’s largest irrigation system.
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I was struck by how the Indus, celebrated from ancient times in
sacred Sanskrit hymns, was treated as a resource but no longer as an
object of reverence. Everyone I met, from peasants to politicians,
thought the river was being mismanaged. They spoke of corrupt or
inefficient engineering projects, inequitable water sharing, and
ecosystems destroyed in the name of profit.
At the time, not many people were talking about the effect of global
warming on the Indus. It wasn’t until 2010 that the scale of the problem
became clear—through dramatic floods rather than a shortage. The future
of total rainfall in the Himalayan region is uncertain, but there has
been a clear increase in extreme rains. In August 2010, when the Indus
was already full of summer meltwater, it was hit by a freak monsoon. The
torrential rain—in some places, a year’s worth in a few hours—caused
the river to breach its banks throughout its southern course. More than
1,600 people died; damages reached $10 billion.
“Flooding on that scale was unheard of,” said Usman Qazi, an
Islamabad-based disaster-relief expert with the United Nations
Development Programme. “But it will become more common,” he added.
“Climate change–related floods are one of the biggest hazards in this
country..
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CHINA: Nomad children fetch water from the Indus near its source in Tibet. China controls the headwaters of the river. In 2006 it constructed a dam without informing India and Pakistan, which heavily depend on the river.
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This is the starkest difference since I wrote my book: The specter of
climate change now haunts all discussions of the future of the Indus.
The challenge is made infinitely more complex because the Indus and five
of its tributaries are shared by India and Pakistan, neighbors and
enemies since 1947, while China controls the headwaters. When I reached
Tibet in 2006, on my journey to the source, I was shocked to find that
there was no water in the Indus: China had recently dammed the river’s
upper reaches.
India, Pakistan, and China have huge populations and abundant reasons
to protect their resources. All three have nuclear weapons. We think of
climate change as happening in increments, almost imperceptibly. But
along the Indus, it could trigger a conflict that changes the world
overnight.
There was a time when humans were so grateful for rivers, they made them into divinities.
In the Rig Veda, India’s most ancient Sanskrit text, the Indus is the
only river worshipped as both god and goddess, father and
mother—probably because it was here, in the Indus Valley, that
Hinduism took its first form, experts believe.
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TIBET: A pilgrim from Atlanta, Georgia, is doused with the sacred waters of Lake Manasarovar in Tibet, near Mount Kangrinboqe and the source of the Indus. Thousands of pilgrims trek around the mountain each year, but the Chinese government has banned bathing in the lake.
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North of Kangrinboqe, the great river bubbles modestly out of the
ground, as if that four-armed goddess were breathing out. It runs west
through the mountains, along the top of India, and across the disputed
border into Pakistan. Where the Himalaya meets the Karakoram and the
Hindu Kush, in a knot of stone and ice, the river makes a sharp left and
is funneled south, a thousand miles through the plains of Punjab and
Sindh to the Arabian Sea.
About 40 miles north of that turning point, in the
valley of the Hunza,
an Indus tributary, I walked onto Ghulkin, a glacier with orchards and
villages on either side. It was black with dirt and rubble from the
mountains. I stepped over creaking crevasses; with my fingers I touched
the ice body itself. From the summit, the view was exhilarating. The
torrential brown river cut its way through the valley. Leading down to
it were exquisite strips of psychedelic green, fields and orchards in
which every leaf is watered by irrigation channels connected directly to
the glacier.
In northern Pakistan, Islamic monotheism manages to coexist with a
shamanistic appreciation of glaciers’ power. I was told many times that
Ghulkin was a male glacier, “advancing down the valley in search of a
female mate”—that is, a retreating glacier—in a mystical courtship
dance. Glaciers advance, local people said, because they’re accumulating
mass. That’s true—but as I learned later from glacial geologist Bethan
Davies at Royal Holloway in London, a glacier also can slide downhill
like a child’s sled because it has started to melt and come unstuck.
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INDIA: Leh is the largest town in Ladakh, and its population typically more than doubles in summer with the arrival of hundreds of thousands of Indian and foreign tourists. In 2019 the Indian government assumed direct control of Ladakh, which could lead to increased development by outside interests.
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That may be what happened in 2018 to
Shishper,
another glacier nearby: It suddenly began sliding toward the town of
Hassanabad, advancing as much as 120 feet a day. “It looked like a
train,” local geologist Deedar Karim told me. Shishper rolled over
irrigation channels and crashed into a bridge. By the time I saw it last
October, it had slowed to a foot a day—which is still fast for a
glacier.
In the upper Indus Basin, glaciers no longer advance or retreat
glacially. The Hoper and Barpu Glaciers have melted back so far that
settlements and their laboriously constructed irrigation networks have
been drained. You see them abandoned on the mountainside: houses the
same soft brown as the dry hills. “They were cultivating fields and
trees there in my childhood,” said Niat Ali, a 60-year-old ex-army man.
He reeled off a list of defunct settlements: Shishkin, Hapa Kun, Hamdar,
Barpu Giram.
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INDIA: Tourism has boomed in recent years in Ladakh, which has become a summer refuge for heat-stressed Indians. These vacationers are at the confluence of the Indus and Zaskar Rivers, west of Leh.
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Melting glaciers also present a more urgent threat. Sometimes the
meltwater pools behind a dam of rock rubble or ice—which can explode,
unleashing a “
glacial lake outburst flood,”
or GLOF. In 2018, in the Ishkuman Valley, a flood submerged the
villages of Bad Swat and Bilhanz. Nayab Khan, 48, felt the land shaking
as “the water brought huge boulders. The boulders were colliding. It
continued for 12 days.” The debris dammed the Immit River, forming a new
lake, 20 feet deep, that destroyed his home and 41 others.
Climate change has helped put seven million people in northern
Pakistan at risk of such floods. The three glaciers near the village of
Pasu “are the three dragons,” said Ashraf Khan, an apple farmer and
teacher. “We are living in their mouths.” In 2008 one dragon unleashed a
GLOF in winter, when “normally everything is frozen solid.” Last
August, summer meltwater “washed away a hotel, an office of the Pakistan
Army’s intelligence bureau, and an orchard..
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INDIA: A roadside café in Jammu and Kashmir looks out over the Baglihar Dam on the Chenab River, a major Indus tributary. Under the 1960 Indus Waters Treaty, Pakistan was granted use of the waters of the Indus, Chenab, and Jhelum Rivers—but India is allowed certain rights, including electricity generation.
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The villagers of Pasu,
like everybody else in the north, can see the weather is changing. The
summers are now so hot that for the first time in their lives, people
are ordering fans from downcountry. The winters are milder, for which
most seem grateful. The gold panners who migrate to Hunza seasonally,
living in tents along the river, celebrate the warmer weather—even the
floods.
“The floods bring more minerals out from the rocks,” Mahboob
Khan explained. He was sieving sand from freezing river water, then
rolling it with toxic mercury in his palm to extract specks of gold. He
didn’t care about climate change.
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INDIA: Linemen connect a house to the grid in Saboo, Ladakh. The Indian government has promoted hydroelectric developments in the Indus Basin, at huge cost and with great environmental impact—but also benefits. In 2013 Leh, Ladakh’s capital, replaced diesel generators with cleaner hydroelectricity.
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I was astonished by how few people I met in northern Pakistan knew
what was melting their glaciers or blamed the rest of the world. Farther
south, in the big cities, a sense of injustice is crystallizing.
Pakistan, a developing country of about 230 million, ranks only 144th
out of 192 countries in per capita greenhouse gas emissions. As
Pakistan’s climate change minister, Malik Amin Aslam, put it to me:
“It’s not because of us, yet we are bearing the brunt..
When independence was declared in 1947, and the Partition of
the old British colony created India and Pakistan, each country got less
of the Indus than it wanted. The long, westward-flowing stretch in the
north lies in the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir, and both
new countries wanted all of that. The border dividing
Kashmir remains tensely disputed.
Downstream in the fertile plains of Punjab, the British had built
dams and barrages on the Indus and its tributaries and diverted water
from those headworks into a vast web of irrigation canals. In Punjab the
new border cut through five tributaries, giving Pakistan most of the
farming settlements around the canals but leaving India with the
headworks at Firozpur, on the Sutlej River.
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INDIA: Left - A nursery in Sichewali, Punjab, cultivates native plants that can serve to green the landscape and allow underground aquifers to recharge. Groundwater reserves in Punjab have been seriously depleted in part by flood irrigation of rice, which was introduced to the region in the 1960s, during the green revolution. Right - Balbir Singh Seechewal, a Sikh environmentalist, shows off the water treatment plant he built in Sichewali after deciding that pollution threatened spiritual as well as physical health. The founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak, had an epiphany after bathing in a river.
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Officials on the Indian side asserted their power immediately in
spring 1948, shutting the gates of the headworks. That sharply reduced
the flow into Pakistan. The gates reopened after a few weeks. But as
Majed Akhter, a geographer at King’s College London, told me, that
experience of Indian willfulness is the “founding violence” for
Pakistani officials. Last October, Indian prime minister Narendra Modi
threatened to cut the flow again.
Pakistan got some reassurance in 1960, when the World Bank persuaded both countries to sign the
Indus Waters Treaty.
The treaty divided the river basin, awarding water in the Indus and two
western tributaries to Pakistan, with the three eastern tributaries
going to India. The international community pushed the countries to
build more dams and canals. Pakistan completed the Tarbela Reservoir in
1976. India finished the 400-mile Indira Gandhi Canal in 1987 to carry
water and the green revolution from the Punjab south as far as
Rajasthan’s Thar Desert.
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PAKISTAN: In the northern mountains, the Shishper Glacier, black with rubble, surged into pipes and other infrastructure in 2018. The surge may have been triggered by accelerated melting.
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Analysts in both countries agree that the canals, by providing
copious water at artificially low cost, encourage waste. “We grow paddy
in the desert!” exclaimed Ali Tauqeer Sheikh, a member of Pakistan’s
National Climate Change Council. But “100 years on, we can’t keep
blaming the British.” Large farmers, he said, are “the political elite
and simply refuse water pricing..
Water shortages on both sides of the border are at crisis levels. In
India’s Punjab, debt drives about a thousand farmers to suicide every
year. Pumping groundwater is expensive; every year they have to bore
deeper wells as the water table falls—to 400 feet in some places. The
groundwater depletion is caused by the growing of rice, a thirsty crop.
Meanwhile, river water is shipped away as far as Rajasthan.
Across the border from Rajasthan, in the Pakistani province of Sindh,
I traveled to a canal-irrigated part of the Thar Desert. The irrigation
water was coming from nearly 200 miles away—from the barrage at Sukkur
on the Indus, built in 1932 by the British. Here, at the end of the
canal system, women and children were out in the fields, harvesting the
famous Dundicut chili. In the open-air chili market of Kunri, the
biggest in Pakistan, my eyes watered as I watched mountains of vivid red
fruits being auctioned.
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PAKISTAN: In Wagah, Punjab, visitors pose with soldiers following the elaborate daily closing ceremony on the border with India. In 1947, when two independent countries were created from British India, the province of Punjab was divided down the middle. For the two Punjabs, as for the two nations, Indus Basin water is a prime source of tension.
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But the
2019 harvest
was a dud, explained Mian Saleem, president of Sindh’s Red Chillies
Growers Association: Extreme weather had cut the yield by two-thirds. In
May the temperature reached 117 degrees, withering the crop. “In 40
years, I never felt such heat,” Saleem said. Then came “rain in October
for the first time in my life.” Picking was delayed, and the fruit
rotted.
In the village of Rano Khan Rahimoon, I spoke with landless
sharecroppers, Hindus and Muslims living side by side in painted
mud-walled houses. They grow chilies and other cash crops, and they were
eloquent about their biggest problem: water. “Sometimes the canal water
comes, sometimes it doesn’t,” said Attam Kumar, 28.
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PAKISTAN: A truck delivers cotton to a textile factory in Sindh. The textile industry as a whole accounts for 8 percent of Pakistan’s GDP and more than half of its foreign exchange earnings. But cotton is a water-intensive crop, and in recent years, erratic weather patterns—heat waves followed by unusually heavy rains—have resulted in low yields.
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“The problem is threefold,” he went on. “Scarcity of canal water,
unusually heavy monsoons, and this poisoned groundwater we are forced to
drink.” Wells, he said, have been contaminated by runoff from
fertilized fields. Kumar pulled up the shirt of Salaam, an 11-year-old
boy, to show me the scar from his kidney surgery. Four of the 150
villagers have had kidneys removed. “This poison is shortening our
lives,” Kumar said.
The next morning I took tea with a landowner and former federal
minister, then spoke with the manager of a 6,000-acre mango farm, where
servants were watering a rose garden in the desert. Both men lamented
the newly erratic weather as they cracked open bottles of Evian. But
they weren’t worried about running short of canal water; they were
powerful enough to be given what they needed.
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PAKISTAN: Left - After wheat, cotton occupies more land than any other crop in Pakistan, and women and girls pick most of it. In the process many are exposed to high levels of pesticides and suffer a range of health problems. These women are working at Tibba Sultanpur in Punjab. Right - Fabric from factories such as this one at Khurrianwala, Punjab, contributes more than half of Pakistan’s foreign exchange earnings. But a lot of scarce groundwater is “embedded” in the exported material: It takes more than 2,000 gallons to produce a pound of raw cotton.
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PAKISTAN: Children collect drinking water from a filtration plant on the shores of Manchhar Lake, Sindh. Pakistan’s largest freshwater lake, it’s fed by the Indus. But water diversions upstream have caused it to stagnate, while agricultural runoff draining into the lake has killed most fish and made the water too polluted to drink without treatment.
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After a delicious lunch at the mango farm, I stopped by the village
hospital. The doctor, Moomal Waqar, was in despair about the number of
patients with kidney and gallstone ailments. Like the sharecroppers, she
blamed unfiltered drinking water polluted by fertilizer. “Who here,”
she asked, “can afford mineral water bottles?.
Poisoned water is widespread in Pakistan. A team led by Joel
Podgorski of the Swiss Federal Institute of Aquatic Science and
Technology reported in 2017 that up to 60 million people in the Indus
Basin may drink
groundwater contaminated by arsenic.
The arsenic is naturally present in soils; it may also come from
fertilizers. It gets leached into the aquifer by heavy irrigation.
“Arsenic poisoning exactly matches the irrigated areas,” said Hassan
Abbas, a hydrogeologist in Punjab. “We have poisoned one of the largest
groundwater reserves in the world..
Pakistan also has one of the world’s highest rates of childhood
malnutrition—at least a third of all children suffer from it. The
country’s highest rates of all, said Daanish Mustafa, a Pakistani
geographer at King’s College London, are “in the irrigated districts,”
where agricultural practice prioritizes export crops over food security.
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PAKISTAN: In Karachi, on the Arabian Sea, a driver drains water piped from the Indus into his truck—legally, in this case. But a thriving black market leads to dire shortages for the poor.
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All these problems come back to the way water is used in the Indus
plains. Dams, barrages, and canals made water abundant and cheap while
trapping much of the river’s fertile silt in the reservoirs. The green
revolution in the 1960s and 1970s brought even thirstier hybrid crops,
along with chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Flood irrigation
requires lots of both, because standing water is a vector of insect
pests and because the water washes the chemicals away—into groundwater.
The result, according to Abbas, is that “we now take 10 times more water
from the river than we need to.” Water is scarce and contaminated in a
land where it was once plentiful and clean.
Like many water experts I spoke with, Abbas advocates a radical
overhaul of the system. Both Pakistan and India have ancient
water-harvesting traditions, adapted to the rhythms of the river and the
rains, that have been neglected since British times. Instead the two
countries have focused on huge engineering projects—on dams and canals.
Both have plans for new dams in the Indus Basin.
Climate change, Abbas argues, could be a blessing for Pakistan—an
incentive to rethink the system. It could transition from expensive
hydroelectric dams to cheaper solar power. It could replace flood
irrigation with drip irrigation from pipes tapping into an unpolluted
aquifer under the Indus. Finally, it could restore wetlands and forests
in a corridor along the Indus and its tributaries. They would absorb
floodwaters, thus avoiding a repeat of the 2010 disaster, and at the
same time recharge the aquifers. Dams and reservoirs provide Pakistan
with only 30 days’ supply in a drought; the Indus aquifer alone has
enough water for three years, Abbas calculates.
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PAKISTAN: Left - With so much Indus water diverted for irrigation, fishermen in Keti Bandar, on the edge of the Indus Delta, must take their small boats into the Arabian Sea to catch fish. Some families have migrated away from the once prosperous village. Right - At his farm in Sindh, Abdul Qadir Palari makes the blue for jeans from indigo. It’s a native plant that is drought tolerant—unlike cotton, which sucks up a lot of Indus water.
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He thinks rainfall- and river-water capture might even recharge the
aquifer under Karachi, Pakistan’s commercial capital. On the edge of the
Indus Delta, it’s one of the world’s largest water-stressed cities:
Fifteen million people have sucked its aquifer dry. Kinjhar Lake, an
Indus-fed reservoir 60 miles away, is their nearest source.
By the time the river nears the sea, it has almost ceased
existing. In an alley in Goth Ibrahim Haidri, a fishing village near
Karachi, I passed a line of women waiting with their waterpots for a
tank truck. They said they’d been waiting for three days. Such scenes
are common in low-income neighborhoods here. The rich take the lion’s
share of freshwater from the Indus and its lakes, often buying it
illegally. The poor wait in line or buy cheaper, brackish water.
Many residents of Goth Ibrahim Haidri are migrants from the delta.
Their ancestral home was ruined from two directions. Since the Ghulam
Muhammad Barrage was constructed in 1955, the Indus has flowed down to
the sea only weakly, fitfully; instead, boosted by climate change, the
sea has risen to meet the river, rendering it salty far upstream.
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PAKISTAN: Houseboat residents on Manchhar Lake traditionally disguise themselves with decoys to hunt birds. But the fish have mostly gone from the polluted lake, and migratory birds are also less abundant, so most of the people have left too. Fewer than 50 houseboats are left; once there were many thousands.
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At sunset I stood by the sea watching the pretty wooden fishing boats
come into harbor. Like Pakistan’s trucks, they were painted in a riot
of colors, adorned with flowers and fish. Mohammad Ali Shah, head of the
Pakistan Fisherfolk Forum (PFF), grew up here and swam in this sea as a child. He would never let his grandchildren do so, he said—it’s far too polluted.
PFF is campaigning for a law that would grant personhood—and
rights—to the Indus. Shah showed me a draft. It calls the Indus “an
ecological marvel” with “value aside from its utility to humans.” It
points out that the Quran calls all the Earth “a mosque.” It proposes
checks on hydro projects, pollution controls, and a fund to restore the
river.
The proposal is too
radical to become law. But something needs to shift along the Indus;
something like the old reverence needs to return. The alternative, in
which the river continues to be squandered and new weather gods add to
the chaos, is too scary to contemplate.
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